how to fix Panisonic 10 blink error

I recently got to repair a broken Panasonic Plasma TV It was much trickier than I expected. I have replaced power boards before in Vizio’s but they were LCD The first this I did was plug it in and turn it on to confirm the 10 red blinks. Then I took the back cover off to see if any caps were blown. There did not appear to be any bad spots.

To the internet… I searched the model number to see what would come up. I use duckduckgo instead of google or bing. A few things come up notably some videos on youtube about how to fix a bad power board but those videos were for older models of TV. I pull the trigger and order a power board anyway. ShopJimmy is where I get all my tv parts if they have them in stock or else eBay A few day later new power board shows up I install it turn it on and I still have the 10 blinks….

Back to the internet… One of the confusing/frustrating things of this adventure was going to the Panasonic support website yielded no usable info. All they say if your set is giving you 10 blinks and is not because of a hdmi cable is it needs serviced. Well duh I’m trying to service it. This time around I dig a little deeper into some forums and come across something called Panasonic National training manual. It looked good but none of them were for the model of TV I had. I little more digging led me to the 2010 Plasma tv technical guide. PDF link here Anyway this applies to these models of Panasonic plasma TV made in 2010


(FHD Premium 3D)
TC-P54VT25 TC-P58VT25 TC-P65VT25
(FHD Core)
TC-P42G25 TC-P46G25
(FHD Leader)
(FHD Entry)
(HD Leader)
(HD Entry)

After scanning this new found manual the 10 blinks is what they call an SOS or generic code for any of 3 boards or combination of those boards can be bad. It says you can alternately unplug the connectors circled in red to test which of the boards are bad. After following those steps I decided the SS or Vsus board was bad so I ordered one of those. It finally comes install it and I still have the 10 blinks. I go thru the trouble shooter in the training manual again. With the new SS board in it now says the SN board was bad. So I ordered one of those. Each time I ordered a part I had to wait awhile because it always ended up on a weekend so the soonest anything would ship is Monday.

Ok I now have the new SN board put it in while holding my breath that it will work this time and no good. I have 8 blinks instead of 10. Back to the training manual… for 8 blinks is say the cables on the SS board could be loose. So I take it down unplug and reset those set it back up and I finally get it to power on WOOOOHOOOO!!! but the picture has black horizontal lines across it.

There is nothing in the manual about black lines. They ended up coming form the ribbon connectors on the left side of the SN board. Took me about an hour to get them seated just right. They have to be perfectly straight.

panasonic plasma board labels

plasma labels


I liked the challenge. I haven’t had to work that hard to fix something for awhile. Total cost of parts $28.05 for SS board, $69.16 for SN board plus $9 restocking fee for returning the power board that I tried first. Equals $106.21 and about 3 1/2 weeks due to all the ship

kindle 3 tear down and repair

This project started with a customer bring me 2 kindle 3rd generation e readers want one fixed. His original was dropped and broke the power switch. The other one he bought for parts it had a broken screen. The other difference between the 2 devices besides the broken parts was the original was a 3g model and the broken screen one was WiFi only model. I didn’t know that until after I had them apart. The 3g model is also one they bought while over seas.

So I popped some covers open to see what I could do. The first ideas was to try to replace just the power switch but that didn’t work because the power button is integrated into some kind of a substrate that the circuit board is attached to. My next idea then was to just swap the guts in them. I put the good screen with the WiFi only guts and it worked.

But I wasn’t quite satisfied with losing the 3g function. I took them apart a little farther removing both boards from the substrate and put one back together with the good screen, good power switch, and original 3g guts. Did not power on ouch. Tired reconnecting the little ribbon cables and connections but still no good. In the end I went back to the working setup with the good screen, WiFi only guts, and good power switch.

The customer gets a working unit just minus the 3g function.

Tools of the trade just one little Phillips screw driver and plastic pry tool to get the case off. On the plus side the battey is very easily replaced if that was the problem. Nothing was glued down like you find with apple products. Some things had some double sided tap was all.


I wasn’t thinking when I started the job so these photos were taken after the fact with the leftover parts