Mighty Lighty Build Progress

Update ….

I have since entered this project into 2 hardware contests here  https://hackaday.io/project/10999-mighty-lighty     and here https://www.hackster.io/kelley-steen/mighty-lighty-b38d9d

I’m also in the process of sourcing parts for version 2 with the smaller raspberry pi zero and smaller power supply


The problem –

Security cameras are still complicated to install, setup, and use. Most require a technician or a handful of frustrating calls to various tech support places. And the average person may still not be able to see a video feed outside of their local home network.

2 primary components that all video cameras require are power and data. For medium to higher end setups this means running cables. Even cams that have Wi-Fi still require a power source that better be somewhat close to an outlet unless you want to change batteries (wireless power hasn’t hit the big time yet).This could get even more complicated if you want to put this security cam outside. Now it needs to be weather proof, within Wi-Fi range, and power source.

The Solution –

What if there was already a convenient but over looked power source in all the locations you would want to place a security camera around a house?

Enter the humble light bulb socket… There is at least one in every room, by the front door and the back door, even in front of the garage.

The security camera form factor just needs adapted to take advantage these locations…

An indoor/outdoor security camera that you can plug into any light socket and remote control from any phone, tablet, or laptop.

Ideally it would have no moving parts… if the wide lens camera sensor does provide the best viewing angle the enclosure may have to be slightly flexible or have 2 image sensors

Concept for Alpha version or proof of concept parts list …

  • Light socket to 2 prong plugin adapter
  • 120v to 5v 2.1amp adapter to power raspberry pi
  • Raspberry pi 3 board for Bluetooth/Wi-Fi
  • Wide angle 180 degree camera or raspberry camera module
  • Led light or small led panel
  • Back up battery
  • 3d printed enclosure for modern light fixture
  • For location outside of Wi-Fi coverage an Ethernet over power line option could be included
  • For outdoor models weather sensors could be included
  • Day or night vision

*Obliviously with a proper pcb layout much of this could be combined and reduced

*Heat dissipation could be a problem enclosure may have double duty of heat sink functionality


Android and ios apps and internal web accessible menu

Painless pairing … connect to a mighty lightyjust like you connect a phone with a new chrome cast.

Remove old light bulb … screw in might lighty … download /open app … add camera to app with painless pairing… and you have just installed a smart security camera in less than 5 minutes

Raspberry pi could run either linux or windows 10 IOT ….

Would need video server functionality

Light web server functionality …

possibly node.js

H264 streaming

Upnp networking

And opencv for people and pet detection or googles new image detection ai service

Video and image capture would not be locked down to any one destination…

Save video or images to your cloud storage of choice… box… drive… s3 … or local nas on network

Put video on any tv in house via dlna or chrome cast

Even set the video of a might lighty to your choice of streaming services… youtube etc

Get notifications from the apps… object detection emails, texts or twitter

Notification if someone inevitably turns that light switch off .. warning running on battery power

Also works with nest or other smart home hubs

We can’t forget the light source… configure light timer … dusk to dawn … motion activated … etc


Putting it all together

After switching to the alternative lighting with the smart bulb I was able to put it together pretty quickly.

I installed MotioneyeOS and took the stock raspbian off. Out of the box it is very functional for this particular case but for a production model or consumer version the software would have to be even more user friendly for non tech people. Which is the whole point of this project.

Switching to the smart bulb also meant switching to a slightly different light socket adapter with a 2 prong outlet on the side.

This version of the prototype achieved the following things:

  • App controlled lighting through the wink app
    • turn on/off ,
    • dimmable
    • scheduling
  • Web controlled security camera made possible by MotionEyeOS
    • Motion detection
    • image capture and save
    • video capture and save
    • save data to google drive or dropbox
    • view video away from the house
    • email notifications of motion detections
  • Hardware
    • pi 3 with integrated wifi
    • pi camera 5 mega pixel
    • GE A19 smart bulb
    • usb charger


how to fix Panisonic 10 blink error

I recently got to repair a broken Panasonic Plasma TV It was much trickier than I expected. I have replaced power boards before in Vizio’s but they were LCD The first this I did was plug it in and turn it on to confirm the 10 red blinks. Then I took the back cover off to see if any caps were blown. There did not appear to be any bad spots.

To the internet… I searched the model number to see what would come up. I use duckduckgo instead of google or bing. A few things come up notably some videos on youtube about how to fix a bad power board but those videos were for older models of TV. I pull the trigger and order a power board anyway. ShopJimmy is where I get all my tv parts if they have them in stock or else eBay A few day later new power board shows up I install it turn it on and I still have the 10 blinks….

Back to the internet… One of the confusing/frustrating things of this adventure was going to the Panasonic support website yielded no usable info. All they say if your set is giving you 10 blinks and is not because of a hdmi cable is it needs serviced. Well duh I’m trying to service it. This time around I dig a little deeper into some forums and come across something called Panasonic National training manual. It looked good but none of them were for the model of TV I had. I little more digging led me to the 2010 Plasma tv technical guide. PDF link here Anyway this applies to these models of Panasonic plasma TV made in 2010



(FHD Premium 3D)
TC-P54VT25 TC-P58VT25 TC-P65VT25
(FHD Core)
TC-P42G25 TC-P46G25
(FHD Leader)
(FHD Entry)
(HD Leader)
(HD Entry)

After scanning this new found manual the 10 blinks is what they call an SOS or generic code for any of 3 boards or combination of those boards can be bad. It says you can alternately unplug the connectors circled in red to test which of the boards are bad. After following those steps I decided the SS or Vsus board was bad so I ordered one of those. It finally comes install it and I still have the 10 blinks. I go thru the trouble shooter in the training manual again. With the new SS board in it now says the SN board was bad. So I ordered one of those. Each time I ordered a part I had to wait awhile because it always ended up on a weekend so the soonest anything would ship is Monday.

Ok I now have the new SN board put it in while holding my breath that it will work this time and no good. I have 8 blinks instead of 10. Back to the training manual… for 8 blinks is say the cables on the SS board could be loose. So I take it down unplug and reset those set it back up and I finally get it to power on WOOOOHOOOO!!! but the picture has black horizontal lines across it.

There is nothing in the manual about black lines. They ended up coming form the ribbon connectors on the left side of the SN board. Took me about an hour to get them seated just right. They have to be perfectly straight.

panasonic plasma board labels

plasma labels


I liked the challenge. I haven’t had to work that hard to fix something for awhile. Total cost of parts $28.05 for SS board, $69.16 for SN board plus $9 restocking fee for returning the power board that I tried first. Equals $106.21 and about 3 1/2 weeks due to all the ship

kindle 3 tear down and repair

This project started with a customer bring me 2 kindle 3rd generation e readers want one fixed. His original was dropped and broke the power switch. The other one he bought for parts it had a broken screen. The other difference between the 2 devices besides the broken parts was the original was a 3g model and the broken screen one was WiFi only model. I didn’t know that until after I had them apart. The 3g model is also one they bought while over seas.

So I popped some covers open to see what I could do. The first ideas was to try to replace just the power switch but that didn’t work because the power button is integrated into some kind of a substrate that the circuit board is attached to. My next idea then was to just swap the guts in them. I put the good screen with the WiFi only guts and it worked.

But I wasn’t quite satisfied with losing the 3g function. I took them apart a little farther removing both boards from the substrate and put one back together with the good screen, good power switch, and original 3g guts. Did not power on ouch. Tired reconnecting the little ribbon cables and connections but still no good. In the end I went back to the working setup with the good screen, WiFi only guts, and good power switch.

The customer gets a working unit just minus the 3g function.

Tools of the trade just one little Phillips screw driver and plastic pry tool to get the case off. On the plus side the battey is very easily replaced if that was the problem. Nothing was glued down like you find with apple products. Some things had some double sided tap was all.


I wasn’t thinking when I started the job so these photos were taken after the fact with the leftover parts